The Cool History of Cleveland

One of the more spectacular buildings in Downtown Cleveland is tucked away off Prospect Avenue and East Fourteenth offers an interesting view of Cleveland’s great past. I am, of course, talking about Gray’s Armory home of the Cleveland Gray’s. The building is a massive five story sandstone castle that stands tall and protects the southern flank of Downtown. And it holds a wonderful history. During the 19th century - most major cities sponsored their own militias. Complete with their own uniforms, flags, weapons and if you can believe it - their own marching bands.

This photo provided courtesy of the Cleveland Memory Project.

Yes, that is the actual Cleveland Gray’s marching band. The Cleveland Gray’s were formed in 1837 but did not build their own armory until 1893.

This photo provided courtesy of the Cleveland Memory Project.

The Armory actually stands on Bolivar Avenue and offers a 10,000 square foot ballroom, a basement shooting range, a wood-paneled library and an extension collection of military memorabilia. The Gray’s, themselves, were a successful military unit. The unit served proudly in the Civil War (with battles at Manassas and First Bull Run), the Spanish American War, the Mexican Punitive Expedition (with General Pershing) and World War I. In fact, the Meuse-Argonne Offensive on the Western Front in 1918 was the last active service of the Unit. The building has been transformed from an actual fort to a museum. Yet, the building remains a dynamic venue.

This photo provided courtesy of the Cleveland Memory Project.

The building was the site of the first Cleveland Orchestra concert and is legendary of having a few ghosts. But if ever in Downtown and can spare a few moments, don’t be afraid to visit this wonderful old structure.

A few days past I was walking around Downtown Cleveland and happened to notice the banal Federal Building on corner of Lakeside Avenue and East Ninth. I started to wonder what had been on that spot prior. Certainly, something horrible had to be positioned on that corner for the City and the Federal Government decided to build perhaps the most boring building on the planet. Well, I was dumfounded after doing some research and realizing that the structure on that spot was none other than the Central Armory. And she was a “gothic beauty.”

Photo provided courtesy of the Cleveland Memory Project.

The Central Armory was built in 1893 by Cuyahoga County to house the local units of the National Guard. It played a central role in the Industrial Exposition of 1909 when it has connected by a temporary walking bridge to a exhibition hall on the north side of Lakeside. The Exposition was a massive industrial show that highlighted the growing importance of Cleveland as the center of the manufacturing universe.

Photo courtesy of the Cleveland Memory Project

Coupled with City Hall the Central Armory was an iconic symbol of Cleveland might and power.

Photo courtesy of the Cleveland Memory Project.

The Armory was essentially a large constructed hall with a balcony suspended from the roof. It was the venue for many meetings, concerts, gymnastic exhibitions and a popular floral exposition. The Central Armory offered the rapidly expanding City a sense of safety and progress. It certainly didn’t hurt when the cavalry was around either!

Mounted police near the Central Armory.

The building was, unfortunately, demolished in 1965 for the Urban Development project now known as the Anthony J. Celebrezze Federal Office Building. A real shame, the Central Armory was that rare gem of architecture that made Downtown Cleveland alive. I cannot say the same of its replacement.

I love playing amateur archeologist in the Big City. For example, for years while walking on the north side of Euclid Avenue near the Statler Apartments I noticed a part of a stage or lobby embedded into the Statler Parking Garage. Turns out it actually was part of the old Stillman Theater on Euclid. It really is a shame that the theater is now lost, part of parking garage. But it is cool to see this random vestige from the old Stillman Theater. Perhaps, the greatest archeological “ruin” in Cleveland has to be the remnants of the Superior Viaduct. For those of you who now live in StoneBridge  Apartments or Condos you live on top one of the most historic bridges in Cleveland.

The bridge was originally conceived as a northern connector between then competing cities Cleveland and Ohio City. Ne’er did these two cities see eye to eye on the development and, in fact, the two cities had a “bridge war” where eight individuals were slightly wounded and few other rioters taken to jail. Cleveland then annexed Ohio City in 1854 making it possible to now control both sides of the Cuyahoga River and thus build the Viaduct.

Construction of the viaduct began in 1875 and was completed for a tidy sum of $2.2 million on December 28th, 1878. It was a graceful structure. The photo below was taken from the west side of the viaduct where the Stonebridge Apartments would be today.

Photo provided courtesy of the Cleveland Memory Project.

According to the Encyclopedia of Cleveland History, “Because of the center drawspan, traffic still had to halt approximately 300 times each month for an average of 5 minutes to permit river vessels with tall superstructures to pass. These delays became increasingly annoying, and the procedure itself began to take a toll on the bridge structure. Voices were raised once again for a new bridge that would be completely high-level.” Essentially, the center bridge span rotated to allow the ships using the Cuyahoga to pass. Simply put the bridge wasn’t high enough for river traffic and people had to wait to get across.

Photo courtesy of Cleveland Memory Project.

The photo above offers a great view of the west side of the viaduct and of the Flats. The second smokestack you see in this picture is still standing and part of the Powerstation Development on the West Bank of the Flats. However, due to the growth of the City and the importance of moving traffic across the bustling hubs of Cleveland and Ohio City a second bridge was constructed nearby in 1918 - that being the Veterans Memorial Bridge or the Detroit-Superior Bridge. It is a bit odd to see the two bridges together and still in use.

Photo courtesy of Cleveland Memory Project.

If you have ever sat at the light on West Ninth and Superior you were probably curious of why there is such a funky look to the north side of the Veterans Memorial Bridge - truth is both bridges at one time were connected!

Photo courtesy of Cleveland Memory Project.

The Superior Viaduct was closed in 1920. Most of the bridge was demolished in 1922 with some additional arches on the west side of the viaduct demolished in 1939 as the City had to expand the river for boat traffic. The viaduct still remains a fascinating reminder of the industrial might of this cool city.

The Great Lakes Exposition, in 1936 and 1937, was a celebration of Cleveland’s centennial as well as a venue to demonstrate the industrial power of the Great Lakes. It was a powerful show and in the two previous posting the Cool History of Cleveland detailed the various cool expositions available to all Clevelanders for those two years. In this final post we are going to focus on perhaps the wildest component of the Exposition which was the Marine Theatre, then rebuilt in 1937 as Billy Rose’s Arcade. Essentially you have to see it to believe it.

Military Boat Show at Marine Theatre.

A little dinner and a military model boat parade. This is cool stuff. Look at all the dancers and singers on the stage. This is insane entertainment. Unfortunately, we only see this type of entertainment in old movies. Speaking of old movies check out the next picture.

A Beautiful Swim Show at the Marine Theatre

Stunning just stunning. How cool would it still be to see aquacade show’s at the lakefront event today? I know I would show up. In fact, the Marine Theatre displayed “Aurora Borealis” lights, moving beams projected into the sky and radiating from a center. A most impressive and stimulating visual display.

The Aurora Borealis at the Great Lakes Exposition.

I know the above post card looks a bit incredible but it is in fact a colored photograph. Truth is it doesn’t do the Exposition justice in scope of beauty and architecture. In any case, in 1937 Billy Rose, a world-renowned, showman took over the Marine Theatre and named it, of course, Billy Rose’s Aquacade.

Billy Rose's Aquacade

The Aquacade had numerous shows and dinner. Truly an impressive scene and a wonderful part of the Great Lakes Exposition. If only Cleveland had maintained this gem. Some of this amazing infrastructure should have been maintained and kept for future generations. I will always consider this show and the next 15 years in Cleveland history as its Golden Age.

It always amazes me how much participation the Cool History of Cleveland site gets from its readers. This tells me that there is great passion about Cleveland - and many people simply needed aa venue in which to brag eloquently about their beloved City. Back in January of this year, Cool History of Cleveland did a story on a large number of buildings that were designed, announced and yet never built in the City of Cleveland. Take a peak here. The responses are still coming in - after almost seven months! Cool.

Recently, Brian Cook of Bridge Partners sent in the following email detailing a slew of buildings that never saw the light of day in Cleveland:

“Proposed Hotel at the current park at the NW corner at Jacob’s field fronting on E. 9th street c. 1996 Tony Milan’s proposed office building/resort hotel just west of the new Federal Courthouse c 1999

The twin of the former Medical Mutual/One Cleveland Center on the Jogging track on E. 12th.  Now proposed to be residential as part of Zaremba’s project there. There was another World Trade Center  proposed on the Waterfront line around 2000 I believe. Does the abandoned Eaton/Port project qualify, probably not?

Love this stuff!”

I love this stuff, too. I do not remember the second tower being contemplated for the One Cleveland Center. That would have been a pretty robust development in my opinion. And can you imagine if the second tower of the Old Ameritrust Building had been built on Euclid? Cleveland would have had two twin towers! Thanks, Brian for the email. If there are any additional buildings anyone is aware send over to Cool History of Cleveland today.