The Cool History of Cleveland

On occassion a good dose of surprise can alter history. Indeed, the Cool History of Cleveland blog got a bit startled recently when it received an email from Corinne Kalasky of Turner Publishing asking if we would be up for a book review - a review on the book “Historic Photos of Cleveland.” As many of you know the Cool History of Cleveland blog is dedicated to all things cool and fascinating about Cleveland’s past and the opportunity to discuss an entire book on Cleveland was just too hot to pass up. The book - written and researched by Ronald L. Burdick and Margaret L. Baughman - is a beautiful reflection on the staggering richness that is Cleveland. Both authors are resident at the Cleveland Public Library and have access to photos and research that most Clevelanders do not. The results are stunning. “Historic Photos of Cleveland” resonates to what Cool History of Cleveland has been saying for a few years - this town has a history and depth that most cities could never offer.

One of the unintended consequences of the book is the focus on Euclid Avenue - true enough Euclid was a historic and powerful avenue that wears the boom and the busts of Cleveland well (too well recently). Within a few years one can see the powerful transformation this once bustling residential street made into a symbol of industrial and banking influence and interests. This photo of Euclid Avenue in 1890 (shot a bit east of where East Sixth would be today) offers a beautiful tree lined street bustling with some commerce and residences. The building in the middle of the photograph (at right) with the two flags at its top is the recently built Arcade.

Eight short years later this breezy, tree covered boulevard is a provocative symbol of the new age of commerce. Eight years later! Look at the bustle and size of Euclid Avenue. There had to be a great sense pride within the City. The transformation is shocking.

 
What makes these photos fascinating is that they both share a common marker - the Arcade. In the above photo the Arcade is the last building on the far right. This is a boom town, ladies and gentlemen. This is not your contemporary Cleveland.

Want to see Cleveland at its Zenith? Take a peek at this photo taken in 1933 where thousands (and I do mean thousands) of Clevelanders watch uniformed policemen march on Euclid Avenue toward Public Square. Again, our common marker the beautiful Arcade is on prideful display! It is now on the left hand of the photo next to the “Sherman” sign. Cleveland is alive and full of vigor. 

 
And finally this gorgreous shot of Euclid Avenue in 1941 - a street crowded with pedestrians, buses, cars and trolleys. Yet again we have our marker the Arcade just right of the W. B. Davis building (and check out that beautiful Rosenblum’s Store with the Hills Restaurant in front). If only I could have seen Euclid when it looked like this.

Another fascinating photo is this rich shot of the 1922 Republican National Convention in Public Hall. You not only get a great sense of how beautiful Public Hall is (and it is so very rarely used anymore) but how important Cleveland was to the world.

And finally, one last captivating shot. The photo below is a stunning view of the 1936 and 1937 Great Lakes Exposition. The shot is taken from a lake view but the Exposition is positioned between City Hall on the upper left of the photo and the Cuyahoga County Court House on the right. Did you notice the old Cleveland Municipal Stadium on the far right? The most fascinating part of this photograph is the lake liner (large ship) that is docked near the bottom right of the photo. Are you kidding me? Dynamic.

I have to give serious props to Ronald L. Burdick, Margaret L. Baugham and all the good people at Turner Publishing (www.turnerpublishing.com). They did us proud with “Historic Photos of Cleveland.” If you are a collector of books on Cleveland history this tome is a must!

Today Cleveland considers itself quite lucky that a number of its theaters have survived and are still in existence. One only has to visit Playhouse Square - with the State, Ohio, Allen, Palace and Hanna Theaters - to see what saving a historical theater can bring to a downtown area. The Cool History of Cleveland wrote of the Euclid Hippodrome earlier (see http://coolhistoryofcleveland.blog.com/2008/1/). The Hipp, as it was affectionately known, was a national treasure. 

I have always been enamored by Cleveland’s skyline. Especially from any West Side Bridge, the Cuyahoga River and Lake Erie. When viewed from these special perspectives the city seems to just explode from the ground up to the sky. A very impressive sight indeed. But have you ever considered what the skyline of Cleveland might have been?

I am dedicating this post to a number of skyscrapers that could have altered the Cleveland skyline for the better. Most were actually designed, planned and approved for development. Most were not built for economic reasons I suspect. But if built they would be full (I really believe this) because these buildings would demonstrate growth in the Downtown core and they would be cool as hell. (Must give a big shout out to Cleveland Skyscrapers @ www.clevelandskyscrapers.com.) Also, this post does not include other skyscrapers that have been TORN-DOWN and never replaced. More on that later.

THE PROGRESSIVE TOWER

No other building would have transformed Cleveland more than the Progressive Insurance Tower. An impressive design by Frank Gehry (who finally got his Cleveland “piece” when the Weatherhead School was built at Case Western Reserve University). The design was presented in 1987 and building slated to begin 18-24 months later. The Cleveland aristocracy “screwed the pooch” on this one and upset Peter B. Lewis then CEO of Progressive Insurance. Progressive then moved all operations to an eastern suburb. (Whose name I cannot even muster the strength to mention…truth is, this building should have been built.)This would have been a massive building at over 1,000,000 square feet. Huge!

Planned to be constructed on the northern area of the Burnham Mall over the railsite between Cleveland City Hall and the County Court House. The building was slated to include a hotel, an art museum, a creativity center, a health club and a research center. Pearched atop the building would have been a folded newspaper. I can only say that this building would have had a tremendous transformative effect on Downtown.

THE AMERITRUST TOWER

A lot of Clevelanders forget that when the Key Tower was being constructed it was to be part of a “twin development” at Public Square that was to include the Ameritrust Tower as well. The building was planned to be well over 60 stories which would have made it, easily, the largest skyscraper in Cleveland at 1,200 feet tall. This project was cancelled, obviously, when Society Savings (now Key Bank) acquired Ameritrust. But imagine Key Tower on the Northeast side of Public Square and this behemoth on the west side of Public Square (at Superior Avenue and Ontario Avenue). Today it is a parking lot. Coupled with the Progressive Insurance Tower. Cleveland would have been blessed with a dominant skyline.

THE DOUBLETREE HOTEL

Clearly not as striking as the Progressive Insurance or Ameritrust Towers, but the Doubletree Hotel complex, to be located on Lakeside Avenue and W. Sixth, would have brought a unique vitality to the Warehouse District. This 28-story building was to include a 300 room Doubletree Hotel (perfect for, say, a Medical Mart), corporate office space, a Fish Market restaurant and a 400-car garage. This would have been a perfect anchor for the Warehouse District as well as for the Brown’s Stadium. Plans were announced in September of 1999 that ground-breaking was “immenient.” Today, the lot is owned by Cuyahoga County. (What is it with surface parking lots in Cleveland? These lots kill development.) Imagine the crowds this building could have brought to an already robust Warehouse District.

THE OLD AMERITRUST TOWER

I know a few of you will be quick to suggest that this building should not included since the Ameritrust Tower is already built (and empty) and sticks out on East Ninth like a sore thumb. But look at the photo again. Were you aware that the Ameritrust building was supposed to be “twin tower” that extended back onto Euclid Avenue? This Marcel Breuer designed building remains an enigma for downtown. Much was made of the Cuyahoga County government moving its operations to the site. And now the word is of a new development of condos and a hotel. Which, of course, I hope comes to fruition. Say what you will of the building - but it merits new life. But again, imagine the structure as a “twin tower” and what that might have been for Euclid Avenue.

THE “EUCLID AVENUE BUILDING”

This building was announced to the public while construction was beginning on the National City Tower in 1979. Essentially, this building would have stretched from East Ninth west onto Euclid Avenue across the street from the National City Tower and even onto Prospect Avenue to the South. It was a fairly significant proposed development at the time. A number of the buildings along Euclid Avenue that were to be a part of this development were actually torn down (including the historic Hippodrome Theater - which I have written about on Cool History of Cleveland) and remain, you guessed it, surface parking lots. Others were saved including the Schofield Building (corner of East Ninth and Euclid) and the famous City Club Building (also known as the Citizens Building).

THE OHIO WORLD TRADE CENTER BUILDING

The Warehouse District could have had another intriguing development on the southeast corner of St. Clair and West Sixth. Not a revolutionary design achitecturally speaking but would have gobbled up some vacant space and given the Warehouse District some density. Today, it is still a freaking parking lot.

THE MASONIC TOWER

This 24-story beauty was to be built on Euclid Avenue and East 36th in front of the iconic Masonic Temple. The Masonic Tower was to be office space and, in my opinion, would have been a great gateway for the Midtown area. Shame this gorgeous structure was never built.

If anyone knows of other structures planned but never built please let me know @ mdealoia@mac.com. I was made aware of two condo towers that were to be built on West Ninth but I would enjoy knowing of other key structures and their designs.

Very pleased to announce that the Cool History of Cleveland was picked as one of Cleveland Magazine’s “Hot Picks” for Blogs. Check out the article at http://tinyurl.com/8xpx69. It is gratifying to see this blog get some props. I do a lot of writing (two blogs, two published books of poetry, working on a movie script) but nothing gets me as excited and thrilled as the Cool History of Cleveland.

Again, many thanks Cleveland Magazine. And many, many, many thanks to all the great readers of this blog.

I was walking down Euclid Avenue a few days past when I was struck by a few thoughts…the first being, it really does not feel like Christmas or the Holiday Season downtown this year. I don’t believe I am the only one who feels this way. Despite the beautiful decorations in Playhouse Square and the annual Festival of Lights at Public Square - the rest of Euclid Avenue just doesn’t seem to have the spirit of years past. Which got me to thinking - what was the Christmas Season like in years past in Cleveland? I found some very spirited photos showing what Christmas used to be like in Cleveland and they are marvelous. And next year I promise to do some more research on Christmas on Euclid Avenue - because I have a sneeky suspicion that are some great photos I did not get to uncover year.

Hey - are you ready for a Christmas Parade?

Where did all these people come from? This photo was taken in 1955 moments before Cleveland’s annual Christmas Parade along Euclid Avenue. This particular shot was at the Cole Shoe Store on the south side of Euclid between East Fourth and Euclid pointing towards Public Square. Very near where House of Blues would be today. The crowd is crazy large.

This photo was snapped very close to where the above photo was taken - East Fourth and Euclid albeit from a different vantage point and different year - 1966. But what a gorgeous street scape. Look at all those signs and Christmas decorations!

The next shot is one of my favorite photos in the bunch - it was taken in 1967 under the canopy of the Sterling Linder Store (which would be on the corner of E. 13th and Euclid again looking west toward Public Square).

Look at all these shoppers! Crazy. Look how bright Euclid Avenue looks with the Halle Building across the street. Very exciting.

Speaking of Sterling Linder - it was a Cleveland tradition to take the family to visit this gorgeous department store to view the large Christmas tree that was set up in the lobby.

What a magnificent lobby! With the tiered floors looking down on the large Christmas tree. It is a shame that half of this store was torn down to make a surface parking lot. Just doesn’t seem fair to destroy this beautiful building for a few cars, does it? In my next column I will be reviewing some old photos offering a wonderful view of Christmas displays in some of Cleveland’s finest Department Stores.

As many of you know, I had the privilege of working at Cleveland’s City Hall for the past two Mayors of this grand city. City Hall is a gorgeous building.  Of course, the Mayor’s Office and Council Chambers are stunning as well. But to work in this facility, well, was an honor for such a history buff like myself. In these chambers some of Cleveland’s great Mayors worked diligently on behalf of the citizens of this cool city. Men like William Hopkins (actually a City Manager during a short period when Cleveland changed its government structure), Thomas Burke, Anthony J. Celebrezze, Carl B. Stokes, George Voinovich and Michael White. Cleveland’s City Hall was developed as part of the 1903 Group Plan of governmental buildings built along the various Malls tucked in between East Sixth and Ontario Avenue. City Hall was placed in perfect symmetry with the county courthouse at the north end of the Mall. Designed by J. Milton Dyer, the city hall has an arcaded ground story, a 2-story Tuscan colonnade, and a central entrance bay characteristic of the Beaux-Arts style.

The Great Hall gave that imposing entrance to a public building that is so lacking anymore. (But certainly gave me a great thrill to walk through every morning.)

What I find amazing is that the “progressive mayors” of Cleveland and perhaps one of the most famous Mayor’s in the U.S. - Tom Johnson never worked in the current City Hall. Prior to the this facility, the City of Cleveland in 1875 started leasing the Case Block Building, then located on the north corner of East Third and Superior until the new City Hall was dedicated on July 4th, 1916. However, the Case Block was an impressive building in its own right.

But the most amazing City Hall was the one never built. In 1895 the voters of Cleveland approved a Beaux Arts designed building to be built on the northern quadrants of Public Square. The most eloquent component of its design was the enormous arch spanning over Ontario Avenue for street cars to pass through safely. It was a most amazing and jaw-dropping design.

Unfortunately, after one week of the official ground-breaking the protests from numerous Clevelanders (after voting approval on the project), it was decided not to continue and Cleveland had to wait another twenty years before it received a new City Hall.

During my Thanksgiving Day break, if you remember, I posted a piece on the West Side Market - a Cleveland institution. It is not surprising, however, to find that the West Side Market was the only major market place to survive in Cleveland. There were, in fact, many other markets including the East Side Market, the Franklin Circle Market, the Newburgh or Broadway Market; there was even a market place in the old Gordon Square Building (home of the Capital Theater) on Detroit Avenue. But perhaps the most stately of all these markets was the Sheriff Street Market (also known as the New Market).

Sheriff Street is what we now call East Fourth, but then it was a major avenue that connected all the way from Euclid Avenue to Prospect Avenue to Huron Avenue to Bolivar Avenue. If you walked that path today you would see Quicken Loans Arena on this spot. The historical record suggests the market opened up on Christmas Eve in 1891 (although the photo above suggests 1871). The market was privately owned by the Sheriff Street Market & Storage Company. The building itself was located on the east side of Sheriff Street from Huron Avenue to Bolivar.

It is difficult to imagine these days but when the market opened there was no refrigeration so meats and vegetables had to be purchased daily. And the crowds were massive at the Sheriff Street Market. In 1929, a significant part of the market was remodeled as a bus depot. Unfortunately, most of the market was lost in a fire in 1930. The only standing part of the building was the southern most part of the building (in the foreground of the picture above and below).

That part of the Sheriff Street Market was then used for storage until 1950 when it reopened as the Central Market. The Market was a magnificent, and massive, structure especially the middle rotunda area. There are no signs today giving some rememberance to this special market which is unfortunate, but it certainly reinforces my belief of how special Cleveland is.

Now that the refreshing (though most of my friends would say harsh) Cleveland winter has taken root, I wanted to see if there was any cool winter activity this grand old City used to enjoy. Before, I start “waxing poetic” on this post’s topic (and I will) - I would like to say that every time I write a story on the Cool History of Cleveland blog, I keep suggesting that I can never trump the previous story only to find the next coolest thing about Cleveland. This City was very, very cool! (Still is in my mind…)

Which brings us to the Elysium! Just try to drink this in Cleveland.

This beautifully curved building was located in the “arts mecca” of Cleveland - University Circle. The Elysium was situated on E. 107th and Euclid Avenue. Can you imagine this facility on Euclid today? I can.

And by the way, the Elysium just happened to be the largest ice skating rink in the world. Imagine that.

The building was contructed in 1907 for $150,000 by Dudley Humphrey of Euclid Beach Park fame. During that October to May down-time period for Euclid Beach Park, Dudley made sure that he had an additional attraction opened. The ice skating rink offered classes in ice skating and offered ice shows and music bands while everyone made their way around the rink. It was a stunning building.

In the photo above I cannot get over the “Elysium” sign on the top right corner of the building. I try to imagine me walking up to that lit sign during a crisp walk in Cleveland’s winter solstice. Truly majestic.
 
It should be noted that the Elysium was also home to a couple of professional ice hockey teams - first the Cleveland Falcons and then their more famous cousins the Cleveland Barons. The rink was officially closed during World War II and later reopened as a used car showroom. While the Case Institute originally owned the land on which the Elysium was built the school gave the building and the land over to the City of Cleveland. The City, of course, razed the Elysium to widen Chester Avenue. The pictures used in this post really do not show the true scale of this facility as its front was on Euclid Avenue and it extended then to a much smaller Chester Avenue. But what a stunning building. One that should still be alive on Euclid today.

During Thanksgiving and the upcoming Holiday Season it is difficult not to think about food, especially good food. I was thinking about how lucky Cleveland was to have to the West Side Market a few days past when Rachel and I were shopping for a good meal to be cooked at home. And so I began to think of the West Side Market and its iconic status with many Clevelanders. It is a gorgeous building.

But check out that unbelievable neon sign that used to be on the front of  the building (facing West 25th). I wish it was back up on the facade as a beacon to all the shoppers of Cleveland.

The West Side Market has a fascinating history. It is, in fact, Cleveland’s oldest publicly owned market (others that have gotten lost to history are the Central Market, East Side Market, Franklin Circle Market, Newburgh or Broadway Market and the Sheriff Street Market, I will be writing on a few of those later) and started operations in 1840. The first West Side Market was more of an open air market with make-shift stalls. However, with additional land acquisitions and expansion in 1868 the West Side Market finally had a “roof over its head.”

The West Side Market above is actually across the street from where it is located today and is now a park. But given the market’s popularity and the City’s population growth (when have you heard that lately), the City had to plan for a new market. Check out this architectural design for a West Side Market to be built on the above site but was seen as too space constrained.

Nonetheless, a new West Side Market was built in 1912 for $680,000 at its current location. And it was a beauty!

There have been many improvements over the years with massive investment in the physical plant in 1953, 1979 and again in 1992. One of the fascinating improvements completed in the past and I believe not part of the facility anymore was this stunning mural.

In fact, I believe this area is now a small observation deck. But what a great artistic piece. The inside areas too have undergone some radical change. Check out this butcher stand from 1922.

This picture shows a butcher stand that is obviously a bit more contemporary.

The West Side Market is Cleveland’s living past. You simply cannot walk through the doors of this market and not experience something otherwordly. It is a fascinating and utterly charming place. And of course the food is top notch. Do yourself a favor and begin shopping a bit more at the West Side Market.

With the start of a new Cleveland Cavalier basketball season - one with high expectations, it is important to note that the Cavaliers were not the first professional basketball team in Cleveland. That title goes to the Cleveland Pipers owned by none other than George Steinbrenner. The Cleveland Pipers played at the old Cleveland Arena on Euclid Avenue (where the Red Cross Headquarters is now located) in the American Basketball League (“ABL”).

The team won the league title in its only year in the ABL which was the 1961-62 season. The team was coached by the legendary John McLendon, the first African-American head coach of a professional team and who started a massive lineage of other African-American coaches. The very humble, but visionary, Coach McLendon and Mr. Steinbrenner never saw eye to eye (although this is not surprising from Steinbrenner). The team was one of the first racially integrated professional teams and employed a fast-break offense well before those famous Laker’s teams of the early 1980’s.

In 1962, the Cleveland Pipers petitioned to be a part of the National Basketball Association (“NBA”) and the move was approved by the owners of the NBA who wanted the $400,000 expansion fee Cleveland and the Steinbrenner’s would pay. But the ABL sued to keep Cleveland and won and Steinbrenner in his typical fit of rage simply closed the team. But it is important to note the key role the Cleveland Pipers played in integrating professional basketball and that the team was, in fact, the first professional basketball team in Cleveland.